Aashish Gupta | 25th September 2025
Walking through the labyrinthine lanes of Dharavi, one of Asia’s largest informal settlements, the sights and sounds speak of an unyielding human spirit. Hidden inside one of these narrow, almost claustrophobic alleys is a small, unassuming house where the art of leather bag-making thrives quietly. The workshop is not on the ground floor, but tucked away on the second floor of the building, accessible only through a steep, narrow ladder that requires careful steps. Yet, this unlikely setting is where some of Mumbai’s finest handmade leather bags take shape.
A Small Space with Big Dreams
The workshop measures no more than 15 by 10 feet. Inside this confined room, six artisans, including the owner, work tirelessly amidst rolls of leather, sewing machines, and tools of the trade. The man at the helm is Arjun Nile, a 40-year-old entrepreneur who started this journey back in 2007. “I never thought of quitting this work,” he says, wiping sweat from his brow as he surveys the day’s progress. For Arjun, leather bag-making is not merely an occupation; it is a lifeline, a tradition, and a craft that sustains both his family and the artisans who work alongside him.
Despite the challenges of space, Arjun’s dedication is unwavering. He looks forward to the government’s proposed redevelopment project in Dharavi. “Redevelopment can give us a better life and more area to work. With more space, we can make more bags and improve our business,” he explains with cautious optimism.
The Journey of a Bag
Every leather bag made here has its own story, beginning hundreds of miles away. The raw materials are sourced from Chennai, Kolkata, Madras, and other cities known for their leather markets. Once the hides arrive in Dharavi, they undergo cutting, stitching, shaping, and finishing — a process that takes around two days for a single bag.
The result is a product that speaks of craftsmanship and durability. These are not mass-produced items from factory lines but handcrafted works of art, made painstakingly by artisans who rely on experience more than machines. Each bag, whether a simple satchel or a stylish handbag, carries the mark of human touch.
The Price of Craftsmanship
Despite the hard work, the economics of this trade are harsh. Each bag sells at around ₹2,000 to ₹3,000, whether in wholesale or retail. Yet, Arjun and his team earn only about ₹200 to ₹300 per bag, leaving little margin for the artisans after covering costs of raw material and labor. “It’s all done by hand, but the profit is so little,” he admits with a sigh.
What makes the situation more ironic is the role of branding. Arjun does not attach any brand tags to the bags he produces. Instead, branded companies often purchase from him, add their logos, and sell the very same bags at much higher prices in upscale markets and showrooms. While those brands reap hefty profits, the original creators remain in the shadows, earning barely enough to survive.
Life Inside the Workshop
The atmosphere in the room is both intense and intimate. The artisans work side by side, bent over their benches, with the rhythmic sound of scissors slicing through leather and sewing machines buzzing in unison. There is camaraderie among them, but also an undercurrent of fatigue. With little ventilation, the small space quickly becomes hot and stuffy, yet no one complains.
“Each of us knows the importance of what we are making,” says one of the workers, adjusting his spectacles as he threads a needle. For them, the bags are more than products; they represent dignity, skill, and survival in a city where opportunities are scarce.
Dharavi’s Legacy of Leather
Dharavi has long been associated with small-scale industries, particularly leather. The settlement has, over decades, become a hub for skilled craftsmanship, exporting goods across India and abroad. The leather industry alone employs thousands of workers and supports countless families.
Yet, this legacy exists in precarious conditions — cramped workshops, uncertain incomes, and minimal recognition. The artisans are part of a global supply chain, yet their contributions often remain invisible.
The Hope of Redevelopment
For Arjun and many like him, the proposed redevelopment of Dharavi holds promise. He envisions a future where his workshop will no longer be squeezed into a tiny room, but in a larger, well-ventilated space where artisans can work comfortably and produce more efficiently. “We are ready for redevelopment,” he says firmly. “It can give us better lives.”
However, the transition is not without concerns. Relocation may disrupt existing networks of workers and suppliers. The affordability of new spaces is another looming question. Still, for many artisans, the hope of better infrastructure outweighs the fear of uncertainty.
The Human Side of Craft
What makes Dharavi’s leather bag makers remarkable is not just their skill but their resilience. In a world where machine-made products dominate, they cling to tradition and precision. Each bag is a symbol of perseverance, carrying within it hours of toil, sharp attention to detail, and the quiet pride of artisans who know the true value of their work.
The irony, however, persists: while a customer may flaunt a high-end branded bag in a mall, its roots may trace back to this small workshop in Dharavi where Arjun and his team earned just a fraction of its final price.
A Global Reflection
The story of Dharavi’s leather bags is not just local but global. It reflects broader issues of labor exploitation, branding power, and the hidden economies that sustain modern consumerism. Dharavi’s artisans remind us that behind every branded product lies unseen human effort, often undervalued and underpaid.
For consumers, awareness is the first step. Recognizing the origins of these products and supporting artisans directly can create small but meaningful shifts. After all, the survival of this craft depends not just on the skill of artisans but also on the appreciation of buyers.
The Silent Struggles Behind the Craft
Behind every stitch lies an untold story. For Arjun and his team, the work is not just about producing bags, but about feeding families, sending children to school, and keeping hope alive in a city where dreams are often too expensive. The narrow lanes and cramped rooms are their reality, yet they carry themselves with quiet dignity. Their hands, hardened and scarred from years of cutting and stitching leather, tell stories of perseverance. The earnings may be modest — barely enough to cover essentials — but there is pride in knowing that their skill sustains a legacy. Still, the thought lingers: what if their craft was valued more fairly? What if they could place their own brand, their own identity, on the products they painstakingly create? In those moments of reflection, the line between survival and aspiration becomes clear — reminding us that these artisans are not just workers, but dreamers too.
FAQs for Visitors
Q1. Are Dharavi leather bags original?
Yes, Dharavi is famous for its authentic handmade leather products. Skilled artisans craft bags, wallets, and jackets that are durable and unique.
Q2. Where can I buy handmade leather bags in Mumbai?
You can buy directly from Dharavi’s leather workshops or local markets. Some cooperatives also sell online, ensuring artisans receive fair pay.
Q3. Why are Dharavi leather bags cheaper than branded ones?
The same bags sold in Dharavi for ₹2,000–₹3,000 are rebranded by luxury companies and sold at much higher prices. The difference is branding, not quality.
Q4. How does Dharavi’s redevelopment affect leather artisans?
Redevelopment may provide better spaces, but risks include displacement and unaffordable rents. Artisans hope for government policies that support small-scale industries.
Q5. Why should consumers support Dharavi’s artisans?
Supporting artisans ensures fair wages, preservation of traditional crafts, and ethical consumerism. Every purchase helps sustain families and keep this heritage alive.
Aashish Gupta is a writer focusing on culture, communities, and socio-economic issues, bringing attention to the people and places often overlooked in mainstream narratives.
